Let me introduce you to Flavien,He is from France but lives on Haida Gwaii.
Where I spent a few months last year.
He happened to be cycling down the Baja California at exactly the same time as I was.
So we ended up riding together for two weeks.
That was lovely, as apart from a serious amount of prickles,there isn’t much else out here.
These cacti are beautiful to look at, and make great places to camp. If you don’t mind fixing three punctures daily. I guess it was about time as I haven’t had a puncture between Tuktoyaktuk and here. (or I might’ve forgotten about them)
There are some great open views,but not much else for quite some distance.
The good thing about that is, that every little thing that is different becomes really exciting.
Like this pretty awesome structure made out of pebbles from the beach.
A little cactus-man on the side of the road,who’s now travelling with Flavien,
or an oddly placed enormous sign.
That was along a brand new road, with shoulders and absolutely no traffic.
Rather pleasant, if not a little too easy, cycling.
The tailwinds were a plus as well.
Except when you’re trying to find a place to pitch a tent.(Not my tent, my tent is storm proof 😉 )
Along this part of the coast you find a lot of fallen down and abandoned resorts.
Here we camped in the pool.They make for good shelter and sometimes you even get a new friend as a bonus.We did find some great places to pitch our tents
There is lots of space.
And, as I mentioned, lots of prickles.
Not always too practical.The reason this road is so quiet is that it’s not finished.
They’re working on it and this stretch of dirt road takes you back to the main highway.
But not before passing by Coco’s corner!
We had heard about Coco and his unusual little spot here in the desert.
And we planned to maybe stop, have a cold drink, and continue on to camp further down the way.
But if Coco wants you to stay. You stay.
He has a couple of old trailers and told us we could camp for free, use his bucket-shower (hot water!) and he cooked up a storm. Which cannot be too easy for this 78-year old legend.
We had a blast, he has a peculiar sense of humour and loves female company.
But he tolerated Flavien as well 😉
I’ve not been keen to cycle on the main road. Imagine my surprise when all the trucks and drivers there were extremely courteous and pleasant towards their fellow road users, especially us cycling folk!
Nothing but friendly smiles and waves. No dangerous overtaking manoeuvres and very patient. They don’t mind slowing down behind you without getting angry or beeping their horns and would patiently wait until it’s safe to pass or we could move to the side.
Their Northern neighbours can definitely learn a thing or two from the drivers here….
And we never had any issues finding perfect places to camp in this cactus-wonderland.
It looked more like a beautiful garden then wilderness half the time.
But we were clearly not the first ones to ‘camp’ out here…Luckily we didn’t need to spent all our time on the main road, if you manage to find a good map (which I did thanks to Randy in San Felipe!)
you’ll see there are lots of back roads all down the peninsula.
And we tried to make good use of those.
There are some really nice trails.
And even nicer camping spots.
Lack of water is the main issue here, Drinking water, that is.
But we both have the capacity to carry 13 litres so we didn’t run into any trouble there.I was lucky that Flavien is an awesome camp cook.
And we managed to eat a great variety of meals along the way.
It must have smelled good as we had a visitor checking out our camp.Leaving our pretty place by the ocean we headed back inland and to highway nr 1.Where almost immediately we ran into another couple of cyclists,
Eduardo and Rosina just got married last week.
They got bicycle-rings,
and were honeymoon-ing on their bicycles.
So we rode with them for a few days. accidentally catching up in different small towns.
Like San Ignacio.
A small oasis in this dry land.
After having a great little break here at the ‘Casa Del Ciclista’Fighting the wind for another couple of days we were happy to reach the Sea of Cortez once again and cruised down the pretty Baja the Conception where we found Steve,
Steve loves to ride his bicycle.
He also lives in a beautiful house on a hill. We stayed with him and he let me camp on top of the bus.
Only 109 km to go to Loretto.
From where I’ll be doing some paddling.
But more about that next time.