The back end of nowhere… and beyond

As agreed I was met in Katherine by a big purple truck.
To take me out to my home for the next few weeks.Buntine memorial

It would have taken me three days to ride out, which I wouldn’t have minded. It was a beautiful road. That slowly turned from forest area to more open plains. Nothing else but bush and here and there a cow or kangaroo hopping about.

And then there it was.
A little oasis. Complete with palm trees and green grass.a long way from anywhere

Top Springs.Top Springs

A funny place to pass through,
An even funnier place to live.

With a population of 7 it’s the smallest place I’ve ever spent much time.
It’s a place I’d describe with words like ‘interesting’ or ‘different’…
Not least because of the people working there.

There is the overworked & underpaid alcoholic gardener. Gold canWho sends all his wages straight back into the pub. He doesn’t really eat but makes up for it with xxxx gold-cans, his drink of choice. It’s him I am sharing a house with. Not always easy dealing with his mood swings but he’s a decent enough guy. And he keeps the place looking very clean.

Then we have boss-lady.
If a snake or cane toad is spotted she’d be the first one running out with a golf club and baseball bat to murder the animal.ex-snake
She tries to run a tight ship but lacks dramatically in people skills. She seems very nice to most people, calling them ‘love’ or ‘chicken’, but most people don’t work for her or need to deal with her regime 24/7.
On the other hand I have to admit I’ve never been much good with authority. But when someone tries to treat me like I’m dumb or bullies me for no reason I get annoyed.

And her partner. An -I suspect- slightly autistic man who’s deaf at one ear and never listens with the other. In the 5 weeks I’ve spend here I’ve never quite figured out what he actually does. Apart from barging in on any one trying to do their job while shouting random comments like: “when you sweep the floor, use a broom!”… Or; “when you have nothing to do, stock the fridges!” (like you ever got nothing to do…)

road to nowhereA 21-year-old southern sheila has been here a bit longer than me and is the boss-lady’s pet. So she can’t do nothing wrong. I get on with her well enough but her lack of spine gets tiresome. She’s usually rather happy and finds everything: ‘excellent!’ and ‘cruisy’…

Big kiwi guy does the late shift. He’s quiet, laid back and easy to get on with. Just does the job not bothered about no one else.

The latest addition to the team is a charming lady from Western Australia, a serious breath of fresh air, she bounces around and is easy to talk to. She’s running the kitchen now and is doing an ‘excellent!’ job at that…

I get on best with the last two, funny enough they are both travellers.
They know there’s a whole world out of TS. So don’t take everything too serious. You need that. Or you might end up like boss-lady…

I’ve been having a pretty good time though, despite of some peoples efforts to put me at work

The most interesting thing is the characters passing through with hatslocal wildlife

We’re not at any main highway so there’s no backpackers.
And just a few retired Australians with camper vans, a.k.a ‘grey nomads’.
One thing I thought would be great is the lack of things to spent money on… But in my first days here I met a lovely couple who go digging around for gem stones in the area and make jewellery out of it… so I bought a pair of earrings…

There are a few aboriginal communities in the area so they come in a lot.Bianca Amisha Britney Kieran and Laurence
I was shocked to find out that we have a ‘black fella’s bar’ black fella's barand a ‘white fella’s bar’. white fella's barAnd these two don’t mix well.
Everything we do is with double measure.on my break

For example the petrol.
If a white fella comes along they can fill up and pay afterwards.xxxx cowboy
Comes a black fella, he has to come in to pay before filling up…Maureen

Many little things like that.

Before I started work here I was told to get a RSA (Responsible Service of Alcohol certificate)
I did the course online.
Only to find out when I got here that we break just about every rule in the book… From underage drinking to serving after hours and smoking at (and behind) the bar…car on the dirt
But again, the rules are different for different people. And boss-lady is the one to make them up. So whatever you do, it’s never right.

Sometimes there is a crowd, like the night we got Miss Universe ’72. Miss Universe '72Who came on a rally and had their final night in Top Springs. Including band, BBQ and some booze 😉 A pretty good night that was.

Then we’ve got the cowboys and girls. All the people working on surrounding stations come in regularly for a drink.a Ringer from the top end

90km up the road you find one of those stations called Camfield. With its 276.900ha and 35.000 cattle, it’s not the shoes But I wouldn’t call it small either.Amanda and Darren

On a rare day off I cycled out to Camfield to check out how things work there.on my bike
You can imagine my surprise when I saw a lone cyclist coming towards me…single speed superhero
Ida, from Swiss, has been cycling by herself for the past few years nearly the same route as I have and is just about to finish her 20.000km round of Australia. On a single speed bicycle!!! I’m absolutely amazed and was happy she decided to stay two nights at Top Springs.

She’s a proper transport these days

And then the ‘truckies’the yard
They’re a special kind all together. They come in for a heart attack on a plate and to chat up the barmaid.
But they’re good fun and I got to ride in a road train 🙂'Buck'

Not only that, I got to fly in a helicopter too!gonna fly!
We’re owned by a helicopter company. They send flying cowboys out to muster cattle and they regularly stop here to get oil.
Sometimes when they’ve got time they take someone up for a flight. It’s great!
You get to see how very remote you actually are and the pilot took me out to a creek where the bats live.bats
There is a bit of a bat-problem at night, thousands swarm down in the trees and poo all over the show. That’s a reason the swimming pool has been closed for months already. A shame. Would be nice to be able to swim since there isn’t a whole lot of other things to do around here.smokey

I did go for a run and a ride on my bike a few times, but after you’ve been up and down all four roads you’ve kindda seen it.get your kicks...

But the chopper pilot showed me where the bats go during day time and how they (not the bats…) muster cattle! car on the dirtIt was brilliant, so next time an opportunity arose I took the chance. Since both the pilot and I had the afternoon off he said it wasn’t a problem to take me up. Not surprisingly boss-lady came out to spoil the fun and told us I couldn’t go because ‘it was too expensive’

It’s not her paying though. She’s not the pilot’s boss. And she has nothing to say over me on my time off. So when another one came in some days later I flew away.

The main job I’ve been doing here is scrubbing and cleaning hotel rooms and toilets. Not the most exciting and not what I’ve been told I would be coming out for.
I know it needs to be done, but it wouldn’t harm anyone to swap the shifts around a little so we all get to work the shop and bar as well…

When I finally convinced boss-lady to make a roster I got all the cleaning shifts during the week, and an early shift Saturday and a late shift Sunday. It did suit me alright. I just bounce around listening to my mp-3 player. And there was a big draft on last weekend. So I arranged for a ride out on Saturday afternoon and planned to stay the night.
Except that boss-lady had different ideas. She doesn’t like me to enjoy myself so on the Friday night she tells me I’ve got a split shift on Saturday… working the night as well.
I mentioned that I already had plans, and I’ve been looking forward to getting to see the camp draft. Her reply;” If you go out there you don’t need to come back!’

I jumped in a road train and away I was. Together with my bike and all my tent truck
It’s wonderful to be free and not have people nagging about silly stuff.

And it was well worth getting sacked for.drafting I had a great time watching people on horses chasing cows around an arena…camp draft

I want to be in Katherine next week for the show, at the pussycat campdrafta proper rodeo which will be fun to watch. Until that time I’m riding around on the road trains. in the trainWith people called ‘Bull’, ‘Jumbo’, ‘Buck’ and ‘Bush Pig’.'Bush Pig'
It’s a good way to see some country…closing upbush fire
Like last night when we went to see Lee Kernaghan & John Williamson at the Darwin city Muster. (apparently two of the biggest names in Australian country)getting on the train
Had a great time and actually recognised some songs from what’s been playing in the truck 🙂chopperbeef

And then, finally, I will get on the bike again.
Time to get out of the Northern Territory and go explore Western Australia for a bit.
It’s gonna be great!'morning cowboysunset


16 thoughts on “The back end of nowhere… and beyond

  1. Hoi Mirjam!

    Leuk om na al die wekelijkse telefoontjes nu ook de bijbehorende plaatjes te zien, geweldig.
    Het ziet er echt schitterend uit daarginds, en wat een enorme bakken, die roadtrains!
    Straks komen E&P op de koffie, kunnen we nog even rustig de foto’s bekijken.
    En morgen weer even een vertaling maken voor de ‘vaste klanten’ .

    Geniet van je tocht en veel liefs en een dikke kus van ons,

    pap & mam.

  2. Hé zus.
    Dat is alweer een poosje geleden. Leuk om weer wat van je te lezen en om foto’s te zien van Australie. Ik ben blij voor je dat je weg bent bij boss-lady 🙂 , nu lekker weer je eigen ding doen.
    Heel veel plezier!

    X Juud & Dim

  3. hallo Mirjam Wat een mooie fotos zijn er weer,Ook vanuit de helicopter.Je vader belde net op endie vertelde dat je weer aan het fietsen was,Mijn mail van vorige week heb je inmiddels wel ontvangen.Daar kan ik dan wat meer aan je vertellen,we wensen je weer een goede tocht,veel liefs ook van opa en een knuffel van oma xxx

  4. Hoi Mir,

    Weer een hele belevenis. Op naar de volgende. Succes, geniet ervan en pas goed op jezelf!
    -xxx- Karin, Michiel, Stella

  5. Hoi Mirjam,

    Wel uit te houden zeker “down under”? Schitterende foto’s weer; genieten we van!
    Hier alles kits; gisteravond bbq gehad omdat Sandra is geslaagd voor de havo. Hele goeie voortzetting van je reis, veel plezier en groetjes van ons.

  6. Ha zus,
    Vanmiddag even op de koffie in apeldoorn geweest, hoorde van papa dat je een nieuw berichtje had. Hier ook alles goed; lekker vrij nu en volgende week op vakantie.


  8. Yay Mirjam – the great Outback – something else isn’t it?????
    I lived in Paraburdoo – a mining “town” in The Pilbara in WA for 6 months – quite an experience!

    Make sure you do not miss Kununurra and the Bungle Bungles in northern WA.

    Yep the life on the stations can be hard and weird! Crazy people are out there for a reason!

    Just you keep on trucking and enjoy my home state.

    Take care of yourself.

    Big hugs

    Linda xx

  9. Summer greetings from Sweden! Only one day left, then my vacation starts!No bicycling for me though, going to drive down to Paris the first week.
    Nice to see that you´re on the road again!!

  10. Hello there, had the pleasure to meet you at Top Springs travelling with my job.

    Then bumped into you in Katherine. I was like WOW..thought I would never see that remarkable woman again.

    I hope NT ABC get the opportunity to interview you.

    All the best, keep safe and you GO GIRL…

    Kind regards
    Katherine Resident
    NT, Australia

  11. Hoi Mirjam,
    Je kent ons niet, maar we vinden je erg dapper. Niet in de laatste plaats omdat je in de regentijd door Indonesie bent gefietst. Wijzelf zijn hetzelfde van plan, maar vragen ons af of dat wel heel slim is. Ik heb een privéberichtje met een paar vragen over de regen en Indonesie gestuurd naar je via het wereldfietserforum. Als je kans ziet om ons te laten weten of we heel dom zijn als we ook van december tot maart gaan, zou dat echt super zijn! Alvast bedankt, Nicole (

  12. This made me laugh and smile….. imagine if you had a boss lady in derry all those years ago…. everything would have been so different… such a different blog.. you can see from the start that you dont care if you never saw any of that lot again. wouldnt have taken me 5 weeks to get the sack though.. glad you did it in style. love steve.

  13. wouw jij trapt wel ik ben onderhand al weer 15 maanden terug, maar jij bent gewoon nog altijd bezig. zet hem op meid. respect! en ook nog op een boerderie geweest, dat doet me deugd als boerenzoon, ik bedoel cowboy.

    nog een stukje te gaan en dan? op weg naar de beringstraat? of gewoon lekker naar huis…

  14. Dag Mirjam,

    Hoe gaat het met je na de Gibb River Road? Wij zijn inmiddels terug en hebben contact met je ouders gehad (misschien weet je dit inmiddels al?)
    Voor ons is het weer even wennen werken en zo maar ach jij bent ook aan de slag.
    We blijven je in de gaten houden.

    Groetjes uit Nederland.

    Manon, Marc, Casper en Luuk

  15. Ben er ook weer. Leuk om te weten dat je nog steeds van het leven en de avonturen geniet.
    Als een colour pencil artist wil je vragen of je een paar foto’s kunt versieren met allerlei soorten palmbomen erop. Ontdekte dat de ene palmboom de andere niet is. Altijd gefascineerd geweest erdoor. De mooiste groeien natuurlijk in Indonesië. De lange slanke klapperboom is favoriet.
    Tot gauw, Mirjam, God speed,

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