Tents, Tramps and Temples


It has taken me a while to warm to Korea.

At least they warned me....

I guess after coming off the massive high of Japan, New Zealand and Australia, nothing would quite compare.

And this was my problem.

When I stopped comparing and started looking around with fresh eyes I finally started to enjoy this weird and wonderful country.

A rest along the bike trails

After just escaping a typhoon on Jeju I was stuck in wet and miserable weather for a good while.

I’ve heard about the 4 river bicycle roads  from Eric & Amaya, so hopped onto the nearest one as I set off from Mokpo.

Big sky country...

Following the Yeongsangang river was easier than trying to pronounce it.

It is very clearly signposted,


there were even a few little climbs.

Lovely little climb

The track was mostly long, straight and uneventful, but whenever it would veer away from the river, into the hills, and if the sun would come out it was rather pretty.


I got some nice views of the river.


A lot of flowers this time of year.

Pretty Flowers I encountered many other cyclist along this path, mostly dressed as outer-space-bicycle-aliens.

Bicycle Aliens

Same country but a world away from the little old ladies working the fields where ever you look.

Little old ladies The facilities for cyclist are good, toilets everywhere.

And lots of excercise machines in case you didn’t feel active enough just yet.

More, more! I want more! There is a few things Koreans seem to like. One of them is coloured lights. I like coloured lights too at times. But have to admit I was fairly surprised at the light show on a weir, miles away from any village, where I pitched my tent for the night.

Lightshow at the Weir I was pretty sure I was the only one watching it that night, and maybe the security guard. Although he seemed busy enough with his phone.

Another thing is festivals, there’s a lot of dancing and singing going on in small and big towns, I can never figure out what the occasion is.


But pretty for sure.

ruling along rural lands

The first big town -and getting bigger- along the river was Gwangju.

Big and getting bigger

where I was lucky to find Declan, an Irish guy who is an English teacher. He happens to be from a town only a stone throw away from where I used to live.


And likes riding his bicycle too. So we had a look around town, and when the weather cleared up I decided to keep following the trail up to the dam.

Not bad Where I found a lovely spot to camp.

As I rode along one guy came up to talk to me, he decided I needed his glasses as there were too many bugs to fly in my eyes (it was getting dark and I couldn’t see through my sunnies)

Looking good huh

Not just that, he gave me a reflector, a light and bought me dinner! He kept on riding along until I found a camp spot that he approved off before returning to town (in the dark, without his glasses!)

I had seen this little building perched high upon the hill and wanted to check out what that was and how it got there.

Turns out to be a little old temple. As for how it got there, I’m still not sure.

A fairly well used tramping-trail wound its way up.


But some have different priorities.

Different Fair enough. You wanna look your best on the hill.

Looking good on the hill

I met two friendly fellows up that hill, Mister Kim and Mister Kang,


they spoke good english and we spent the morning chatting and wandering around. Then they invited me to have lunch with them,  introduced me to pajeon, a seafood and green-onion pancake that is my favourite dish in Korea so far.

And makgeolli, fermented rice wine. Not my favourite, but the guy at the next table seemed to enjoy it alright. So much so he toppled backwards off the platform we were eating on. To everybody’s entertainment. And this was before midday!

small village

One minor issue is, as soon as you get away from the bike trails, it’s not too easy to navigate your way. I had not yet managed to find a good map of Korea. So taking a bunch of small country roads got me pretty much back where I started.

Country side

Good thing I’m not in any major hurry.

I finally found the next river road and decided to follow it to town, I’ve heard the Korean Jjimjilbangs have dormitories where you can stay overnight. A Jjimjilbang is a sauna, like the Onsens in Japan that I really really like a lot!

On my way another man overtook me, he’s a doctor in Gwanju and out riding by himself as his wife doesn’t like cycling and his teenage son is too much into his computer games to get out the door.

We rode into town together only to find there’s no Jjimjilbang there! But a great little restaurant made up for that loss,

Food, glorious food!

and I just continued along the river until I found a good campspot. There are many of those around.

Good Camp spot

Not sure what the red sign says. Probably something like ;”No tents or bicycles on this pagoda“.

Nice view in the morning though.


This river trail, along the Seomjingang river, was a lot more scenic and enjoyable than the first one. Lovely mountains and the weather seemed to have cleared a bit.

But I was over this very tame cycling and decided to head up hill.


And came across this sign!

Bear here

I thought the bear-scare was over when I left Japan. I was almost worried to camp here in Jirisan national park.

Until I found out there’s a conservation project going on and at the moment 19  bears live in this 471.75 km2  park. The chance to run into one of them wouldn’t be too large.

Snakes though.

Hi snake

According to one website  Jirisan means “the mountain of the odd and wise people.” 

Interest in my bicycle

I felt at home immediately.

I discovered that one of the things Koreans do really well is coffee! A wonderful discovery as I really like coffee. This lady was camping in the national park and poured me a brew.

Coffee Yay!

This is a grandfather statue that protects a village.

Hey! The even know Chat Morgan out here!

He reminded me of Chad Morgan.

As I headed for Jinan the map-thing started to get on my nerves a bit. So I decided to head into Jeonju for the day and not to return before I got a good one.

good map!

Mission accomplished!

Now, at least I could still take the minor roads with the main difference that I roughly know where I’m heading.

small village

Of course the whole map is in Korean. So when people ask me where I’ve been or where I’m going I can only tell them the road nr.

Along road nr 751

Here along road 751 I came across a little tractor full of old ladies, they were about as surprised to see me as I was to see them.

Tractor with the old ladies

But I didn’t use the map at all for the first 10-days. I decided to sit still with my eyes closed for 100 hours at a vipassana-course.

It was there I met Emily,


although we weren’t allowed to talk the first 9 days, we did all the more so on the 10th. And the 11th and 12th,

as we decided to walk up some hills with a guitar (she’s a wonderful singer!)

Em sings on the Mountain

This particular mountain had a beautiful temple squeezed in between the two large rocky outcrops that give it its name, “Horse ear mountain”

Temple at Horse Ear Mountain

The interesting thing about walking up hills in Korea is you’re never alone. And down at the car park you usually find a party going on as walking alone, clearly, isn’t enough excercise for some…

This is also, usually the place to find pajeon. 

But, as Emily headed back to Seoul where her teaching-job was waiting for her, I climbed back on my bicycle.

Autumn Ride

To go and discover some more lovely country side

Lovely Country Side

and spectacular roads.

Nice Rock

I like the old bicycles you see around here too.

Old Bike one

Old Bike two

It has been cooling down and by now the autumn is in full swing.

The most amazing colours wherever you look. I just can’t stop taking photo’s of trees.

And one cheeky squirrel.


It really is gorgeous though! Don’t you think?

I particular love the golden Ginkgo trees,

Gingo tree.

not least because I remember my dad taking us to this tree, of which one grows in my hometown.

(on the ‘Waterloseweg, Apeldoorn‘, if you’re in the area)

This is pretty well a living fossil with 270 million years of history! One particular story struck me, as Hiroshima was bombed and every plant, animal and person in the area died, 6 of those trees survived and are still alive today.

I’ve decided to ride and hike to a few of the national, and provincial parks in the country.

Another lovely spot.

Where some parks are very popular and you find dancing, singing Koreans and pancakes (the pancakes don’t dance and sing, just the Koreans..)

Others, like here, at Songnisan are dead quiet.

At Songnisan

I did find out I walked up the ‘wrong’ hill. But it was still extremely enjoyable.

Up the (wrong) hill

Meandering up the country is very nice, particularly since I’ve decided to let China slip and stay here another month.


You wanna be comfortable in your local busstopIt is cooling down though, and I’ve been so very smart to leave my warm jacket (that I dragged through the heat of Japanese summer) on Jeju island… intelligent indeed.

Riding along my bicycle is getting lots of attention.

Interest in my bike


And me too.

Beautiful Woman

From the lovely comment of having a ‘small face’ (it’s a compliment in Korea. I learned from Emily. So nothing to worry about)

To having people randomly giving me things,

not letting me pay for groceries,


inviting me for meals,

Stella and Christine

or letting me sleep in a church building.

Sleeping in Church

God knows how long it’s been since I set foot in a church.

Let alone made pancakes,

Making Pancakes

setting off fire works with the pastor’s son,

Pastors Son

and was introduced to the miracle egg-lollypop machine.

Miracle egg-lollypop machine

The last National Park I came across was Woraksan.

Detail of the temple

The first temple there is built in the year 587!

Temple detail

A nice walk takes you up to the stone carved Buddha from the 11th century.

Stone Carved Buddha

It was just after leaving that temple a guy in a car flagged me down to ask if he could talk to me. He then showed me the bicycle-travel set up he had in the back of his vehicle.

A brompton bicycle, Hilleberg tent, even a great coffee machine!


The perfect set-up all together

He is a keen follower of “The path less pedaled”.

But he has to work. For another 10 years at least.

So for now his ambitions will be confined to the short holidays he gets from the army.


But that evening he joined me at a glorious spot along the road.

Camping together

For a small taste of what life could be like….

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29 thoughts on “Tents, Tramps and Temples

  1. Nou, weer een geweldig blog en schitterende (herfst)foto’s. en die Emily zingt prachtig, zeg! Trouwens, over die Ginkgo aan de Waterloseweg…er staat er ook één bij ons in de tuin, ooit gekregen van jou en je zussen toen we zoveel jaar getrouwd waren. En de blaadjes zijn dezelfde kleur als op je foto.
    En dat grandfather statue; wat een giller! Volgens mij ís het Chad Morgan..hahaha. Uitdaging voor de tandarts…
    Nou, we hebben wel weer contact,

    liefs uit Apeldoorn,

    pap & mam

  2. Hi Mirjam,
    Just read your latest blog…..very, very interesting as always.
    Sad to say Granny Isabel isn’t travelling so well at all at present but hopefully after her final treatment near Christmas time she will pick up and recover well.
    Gerry and I are considering travelling to Holland next year to see your parents if possible. You mentioned you will be home for Christmas and we thought that maybe a good time to catch up with you but we’ve decided we would like to visit your country when the tulips are out and then that may entice you to make another trip home at the same time.
    Would May be the best time to travel to your country?
    Could you contact me with your thoughts re the above.
    Cheers, Granny Shirley

  3. beautiful tour. i feel like i am there. nice work. i am sending a link to my friend in Illinois, a native of Seoul, who will appreciate a tour of her country.
    thanks. keep it coming.

  4. Hi~ Can you remember me? We met at Girisan Mountain about 3weeks before.
    I really enjoyed your nice photos and writing including some videoclips. Actually, I like the videoclipe you was dancing with several Koreans!
    I hope you had taken a lot of good ungorgettable memories from Korea, and come again~ Take care! ^^*

  5. Once again warm feeling after reading fills me full of joy to hear your colourful and honest tales from the road.
    Miriam,you really do it well y’know:)
    Thank you for sharing your story with all of us across the globe.
    We love it,so this means keep at it….
    Happy Pedalling Mirjam
    Keef now saving for part 2 of keefontheroad,x

  6. Way to go! This adventure through Korea looks amazing, thank you for the great photos that tell beautiful stories and your crafty writing skills that makes viewing your blog so enjoyable… keep it up! After my wife and I are done teaching here we plan to take a 1-2 week bike trip around Korea.

  7. One of the best journals I follow. Love your pictures and commentary. Looking forward to your next post. I’m getting excited about planning my 75 b/d tour summer of 2014 tho will only cover Oregon and Washinton in the USA.
    Safe travels Mirjam
    Fred Lonas

  8. Great~! Great~! Awesome~! ^^
    HI~! I’m Korean. Mr.etteforet~!
    How much longer are you going to stay in Korea?
    If your schedule is flexible, I recommend the two cities: Damyang and Ansung.
    I hope to you to meet good friends and see a lot of great scenery.
    Take care ~!

  9. いろんな韓国を沢山見せてもらいました。

  10. Reblogged this on The old man and the triathlon. and commented:
    Oh, I love the travels of the CyclingDutchGirl. I consider her experiences for days after her blog. Beautiful pictures, experiences and life unscripted. Need technology to produce a light weight yoga mat that sleeps like a foot of memory foam for this bony body though. Coffee, Eating, Singing and Fall colors this time. Looks a little cold too.

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