Never Ending Peace And Love

That’s what Nepal stands for. Just so you know 😀Dhaulagiri 8167m

My bicycle was still where I left her! She got a bit rusty. She’s been sitting outside since I left her in December when I came down from Tibet. The poor thing.
But she’s gonna get some serious attention when I get back, in about a week from now.

And mum & dad are here! It’s great to see them after months of messenger-conversations.Mum, happy in KathmanduOranjeboom
They got to Kathmandu with their friends Hans & Ali a day after I finally got there on the Bullet.

The first week we spend doing all the things you’re supposed to do when in Kathmandu (but I would never do myself) We’ve seen all the sites of great cultural,Monkey at the burning Ghats historical and religious importance.the largest Stupa aroundyou'll find this one on a 10-rupee noteguarding the temple

But I prefer the mountains.a lady from Tibet

Good that’s exactly where we headed. Me and dad on the Bullet and the rest by car. I managed to get through the Kathmandu traffic unscattered and on a clear day we rode the Pokhara-road with the white peaks of the Himalaya right next to us. Breathtaking.Annapurna1 8091m

We stayed here during the election, they passed peaceful enough. MaoistsIt was death-quiet on the streets and we rented a pedalo for 5 and spend the day, swimming, sunning, reading a book with a glass of wine on the lake. Doesn’t get too much better…I like pretty colours

O yes it does 🙂

It was time to get a little active again and show them why exactly I like Nepal so much.
So back on the track.mum crosses the river
Slightly different from last time now, we had a guide and two porters (I carried my own stuff)
and we were off to Poonhill.

It surprised me how easy I found the hiking. I thought I lost all my fitness after 3 months on the motorbike. But no, I felt great. So when we arrived at Gorephani, same guesthouse as last time, they even remembered me “Hey, you’re back! …. you got fat!”that'll be me
I pushed on up the hill (3210m). I took with me my mat, sleeping bag some cookies and yak-cheese, the plan was to stay up there the night. So I home on poonhill

As the only person up there I watched an incredible sunset and made myself comfortable in the watchtower. It was a little chilly so I figured the best way to warm up is doing sit-ups in my sleeping bag. It did help. sunsetI only woke up suddenly in the middle of the night with a bright half-moon and millions of stars shining above me with this shocking thought;” what if there are bears here! Or wolves!”
After a few minutes of scaring myself I fell back asleep only to be woken again at 5a.m. by the first tourists coming up for sunrise. About 100 people arrived in the next hour including my parents to see the sun come up and stand in awe over the view of two 8000+ and another couple of big hills.

That morning I moved on.
In December when I was here my plan was to walk to Annapurna Basecamp (ABC). But it didn’t happen so I took the opportunity this time around. I left the group to do their own thing and set of by myself.Soooooomewheeeere...

It was another great day, walking over a ridge from where you can see the mountains and then through a magical forest with little streams and waterfalls and the sound of yak-bells and birds singing. Till suddenly the sky went dark, the forest turned eery, the rain began and my path disappeared. I wondered if I took a wrong turn and got lost in the forest. Backtracking myself back up the hill I ran into this old goat shepherd with a felt point-hat and coat. He resembled a friendly fairytale figure and he showed me the right way.Yak
By now the sky had broken and it was pouring down. Not much later I found a guesthouse where I stayed as the only guest overlooking the valley where the most wonderful rainbow formed as the clouds parted and the sun peeped through.You'll see those everywhere
The young couple running the place told me it was a special day. The Nepalese new year, it’s 2065 now.
For the occasion they murdered a goat and relatives from surrounding villages would come over to celebrate.
I got invited to come and sit in the kitchen around the fireplace, have some mutton and taste their special ‘medicine of the mountain’.
As family members started to arrive I noticed the helpful fairytale man amongst them. Another one was carrying a baby-goat in a bag, telling me he had to look after it since the mommy-goat died. I wondered if that and the fact there was a goat cooking on the fire might be in any way connected…

It’s a bit of a climb to Annapurna Basecamp, but as I’ve told you before; ‘you never walk alone’.
This time I met a bunch of happy San Diego-college-rugby-players who are traveling together for 4 months and with me for two days.

ABC is something special, at 4130m it’s like an amphitheater. You’re surrounded by some of the highest mountains in the world at 360º. You really have to go there if you haven’t been yet…Cheers!

I slept with the sound of avalanches falling around me (a bit like thunder) thinking of the guys up the mountain right now. Two teams are trying to summit the 8091m Annapurna 1 as we speak. Dangerous business. Good if you wanna get rid of some body parts I guess.Machapuchre 6997m

It was busy in the morning. Apart from me there was a French crowd of 50 people, dressed up in lycra leggings to start a Marathon at 7a.m. In the first few meters some went down with sprained ankles because its ice. Running doesn’t seem to be the best way forward but they tried.
After watching the start, enjoying some breakfast and the stunning scenery, I said goodbye to my new friends and started making my way down. Only to catch up with three of the French ‘runners’ 7hours later at Chomrong.

Friday, after another good hike, I got back to Pokhara where I found my Parents, Hans & Ali and Padam (their guide) surprised to see me. They only got back themselves the day before (

Now I’m enjoying the last few hours with my motorbike which I’ve grown pretty close to the last couple of months.
And I’ve had a super relaxing Ayurvedic massage. All muscles feel good and ready to go again.guarding the temple

Tomorrow we’re off to Chitwan National Park (sounds familiar huh)
But this time I’m rafting down in two days, camping on the side of the river on the way.
We’ll be staying in a super deluxe resort inside the park!!! (another something I wouldn’t ever do by myself)
I might even manage to drag myself out of the pool and onto an elephant to spot a rhino, croc or maybe even tiger (just keep trying:-) ) I’ll let you know.

And then it’s back to Kathmandu and then what..?Lady in Bakhtapur

I do love the mountains. Could easily spend much more time hiking around. And maybe I will.

When i first got here the plan was to head back into Tibet. That now seems even more impossible than it did then. There’s even Nepalese police up at camp 2 on Everest (6500m) to make sure no one is gonna bother them Chinese with trying to get the flame up there (hows that gonna keep burning I wonder).

So I’m undecided. I’m gonna have to climb on my bicycle again soon, but with no idea where I’m heading.
I wondered if you could give me some ideas…

thanksprayer flags


19 thoughts on “Never Ending Peace And Love

  1. Hey pippie !
    How about flying from KTM to lets say Chengdu in China and then a train back to Lhasa ?
    That is what many people do who want to get into Tibet from Nepal …

    Lots of love and good travels !


    Ps, it sucks to be home ;-(

  2. Heuj zus,
    grappig om pap en mam opeens ook tussen je foto’s te zien! geniet er nog even van met ze!

    ps. Schitterende nieuwe banner! heeft vast veel tijd gekost om die te maken 😉

  3. Hi – no ideas for you, just enjoy whatever you fancy. Keep away from the torch thing – so much protest has accompanied it’s journey. The Dalai Lama is in Nottingham in May and I’ll be going to one of his talks – I was worried he may have cancelled.

    So glad you’ve had a good time with your folks.

    Wonderful photos. Keep on trucking….




  5. Hi Mirjam, i take it you are the cycling dutch girl? i got to your site via Tim Barnes adventure cycling site, as there was a quote from you about cycle touring in Scandinavia. i have cycle toured before i did the Pacific coast of the USA. I am keen to do a tour while i am living here in the UK and am seriously thinking of Scandinavia Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland, then maybe even carrying on through Eastern Europe and down to Mediteranian Europe will see closer to the time. any way i was just wondering if you could possibly let me know what route you took, and any other tips/advice you may have for cycle touring Scandinavia if you have a chance.
    my email is:

    and happy travels


  6. Lieve Mirjam,hier een persoonlijk briefje voor jou.We zijn vanmiddag thuisgekomen van drie dagen bronbad in Nieuwe Schans,als je niet weet wat het is vraag je het maar aan je moeder,die is nu nog bij je.Ik ben daarom een beetje laat met reageren op je mooie fotos maar we waren weg.Van je vader hebben we ook alle verslagen gelezen,wat hebben jullie veel gezien en genoten.Ook de prachtige fotos die jullie weer gemaakt hebben.We wensen je deze laatste dagen nog veel plezier met elkaar,en voor jou straks weer een goede fietstocht.Doe ze allemaal maar de groeten van ons en voor jou een dikke knuffel,ook van opa,oma Wouters.

  7. Hey Mirjam.
    You sound so happy and good! Yay!
    Your adventures are, as always, fun to read about and very inspiring.
    Suggestions for your next stage: if you can get down here to NZ before mid June I’ll still be here! I know it’s unlikely though. Even if you get here later I’ll send you lots of phone numbers of friends and family who’ll put you up and show you some fun times.
    I also have a friend in Sydney and one in Melbourne if you need contacts there.
    Most of all, keep having fun.

  8. Don’t have a clue of where you can go, but I know for sure that you will find some amazing places wherever you go!
    Are you planning to see China during the Olympics?
    Maybe you can be the mascotte for the Dutch team overthere hihihi

  9. Hoi Mirjam…Nou, daar zijn we dan weer in Kathmandu, en nu pas in de gelegenheid je nieuwe stuk te lezen (en te bekijken). Mooie (en bekende) foto’s. En de banner ziet er ook goed uit, duurt even, maar dan heb je ook wat :-).
    Nou, we zullen je zo wel aan zien komen vanuit je hostel, dan gaan we nog maar eens even met z’n allen Kathmandu onveilig maken…


  10. hey Mirjam
    Weer veel energie opgedaan nu je pap en mam heb gezien,zal wel ,.heel veel plezier in je reis verder langs mooie delen van de wereld,heb veel bewondering voor je
    ps bedankt voor je steun en volg je

    gr eric (een vriend van Juud)

  11. Hoi Mirjam!

    We hebben een geweldige maand met je gehad in Nepal! Wat is daar veel moois te zien.
    De terugreis verliep goed, om 22.15 landden we uiteindelijk op Schiphol, waar Karin, Michiel, Esther, Judith, Fieke en Peter ons af kwamen halen, verrassing!
    Het kleed is zonder problemen meegekomen en staat (nou ja, ligt..) erg mooi. Nu gauw naar bed, want we zijn al weer meer dan 25 uur op…
    Succes met je fiets, en we horen weer van je,

    kus, papa.

  12. Zo te lezen een fijne tijd gehad met je ouders en je ouders met en bij jou. Benieuwd waar je nu naar toe trekt.

  13. Salom Aleikum Mirjam

    It is wounderfull to see darlings, mother and farther. i feel your happiness. I see that it is not a good time to be in Chine, security is low. But I hope you can survive and continiue your injoying.
    Say hello to your farther,I hope we know each other

    take care

  14. Thanks for keeping me up to date. I hiked Machu Pichu in Peru last November.

    When are you coming to Canada? I just bought a new horse, only 1 year old. She will be lots of fun. I still have my other guy and my two dogs. Keep in touch. Love Kate

  15. hallo cycling&hikingdutchgirl,
    hele mooie fotos zeg! Ik ben ook richting het oosten aan ‘t fietsen, kben 1 jaar na jou vertrokken. Inmiddels ben ik al (of pas? ) in Turkije. Pamukkale, Egirdir, Konya, Göreme en Vangölu (t Vanmeer) liggen nog op de planning. Was oost Turkije te onveilig om alleen doorheen te fietsen?
    Verder heb ik echt geen idee hoe je vanuit Nepal naar Australië kunt fietsen nu die fakkel dwars zit, “but I think you’ve already found a way as I’m writing”. Veel plezier in ieder geval met elke dag!


  16. Hee Mirjam, wat grappig ik las dat je eergister in Pohara was. Op dat moment was ik er ook ik ben met mijn fiets opweg naar China en verder. Eergister ben ik vertrokken naar Kathmandu en heb geslapen bij het rafting kamp. Ik hoor van Mark(de Engelsman) dat jij daar twee dagen geleden was. Gister ben ik naar Kathmandu gefietst en nu even uitrusten van de twee zware dagen en morgen richtingen het Oosten van Nepal. ALs je plannen heb ook die kant op te gaan dan lijkt het me mooi je te ontmoeten. Heel veel succes met je geweldige reis.

    groeten, Mattijs

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s