Posts Tagged ‘station’

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Goats, Guns and Gravel roads

October 19, 2009

Yes I know you have to wear a helmet in Australia…
The law says so.

But.
If you’d be on a flat and straight dirt road in the burning sun with approximately 50kg of bike and gear under your bum and three, maybe four, cars pass you in a day. What would you rather have on your head? A hat… or a helmet..?

Right.

So do I.
Policeman thought different though. He obviously doesn’t cycle much…
He did mention that if I choose not to pay the fine I can never get a Western Australian drivers licence.
O, boohoo. I haven’t even got a Dutch one… why you think I cycle Wink ;-)

Ah well. One small mishap… And my first traffic fine ever!

I do have to say that the guys from the Paraburdoo police force have been extremely helpful.
Not only was I allowed to camp behind the station and use the bathroom and computer, I’ve also been given a mobile phone and stay in regular touch so they know I haven’t vanished in the bush yet.

It was a warm day leaving Paraburdoo
So when I came across a water tank I thought I cool down for a while.
Water tanks and windmills are great for that! They make good camp spots too since you don’t need to be extremely careful with the amount of water you use. There’s always enough for a shower. You only want to be careful not to be too close as I discovered. You get cows trampling around the tent all night.

After some serious headwinds and dusty roads I stopped at Ashburton Downs station.
My plan was to fill up on water and move on. It proved a difficult thing to do.
I was offered two days work, and the wind was supposed to turn, so I stayed.
‘Tricky’ the windmill-man thought it hilarious he needed to explain a Dutch girl how to work the windmills…

The wind turned and I moved on, only to come to a turnoff a few hundred km down the road and have that wind straight against me again.
The skies started to change, I saw clouds and one time I swore I felt a raindrop, but I deemed it impossible and kept cycling (and pushing) against the wind.

Ones again the scenery stunned me. I could see Mount Augustus looming on the horizon many km’s before I got there.
The biggest rock in the world. 2.5 times bigger and 3 times older than Uluru!

I wanted to stay at the rock for a couple of days, but when I got there I was told about the ‘Landor races’. An annual fest with horse races, fun & games and a ball.
So there was my choice. Old rock or horse races…

I kept on cycling. Leaving Mount Augustus to be explored some other day.
I called in at the aboriginal community of Burringarrah. My plan was to fill up on water, and move on. It proved a difficult thing to do.

A lot of aboriginal people live in communities in rural Australia. This particular one was very quiet since most people had gone to a funeral. Chris and his son Dylan where there though. They let me stay at their place… for a week (…) We went to the races together and had a great time rockin’ & rollin’

It’s there I first tried witchety grub. Never heard or seen it before, larvae of a moth that lives in the roots of certain bushes. It used to be a staple in the diets of aboriginal women and children. Chris showed me how to find them so no need to get hungry out bush ever again.

When I did finally manage to escape it didn’t take me long to get trapped again.

Cycling along an old stock route a car pulled up and the sheriff who I’d met in the community offered me a coffee. Two coffees and some sandwiches later he moved on but not after telling me he’d leave a container with water 80km up the road at a turn off.
When I got there I followed the signs he’d drawn in the sand and found not only the water, but some fruit and rice pudding too! Yum.

I really wanted to get to Perth sort of fast. I need to find work again soon and it is still getting warmer every day. So I planned to keep going. I should know by now not to make any plans since they do not ever last.

Because then I met Andrew.
He slowed down to ask me if I would want to call in at his station and have a shower.
I didn’t realise I stank that much, but sure. I called in at his station where I now, 10 days later, still am.

I have been helping out around the station a little. Cleaned up the homestead since it’s only Andrew and his brother Richard here at the moment, and they’ve got better things to do then mopping floors or doing laundry…
I even managed to master the art of baking Anzac biscuits. I think they’re great! And popular all over Australia and New Zealand. Just in case you feel inspired I’ll write the recipe at the bottom of this update.

Wednesday and Thursday where muster-days, but not like I’ve experienced them before.
This time I was an active member of a team of seven, six on motorbikes and one in a plane to go and find wild goats. All you need to do is get them together in a yard.
That sounds a whole lot easier than it is. I did have a great time racing through the bush and gullies trying to avoid collision with random trees or other motorbikes. But them goats go every direction except the right one.
They like to hide in bushes or just scatter. We did manage to catch a few though.

Next thing you do is go down to the yards to shift the goats.
I went out to give a hand when Andrew said; ‘right, you drive the Ute down and I take the truck’
……
I drive?

Yep. I did. For the first time ever I rode a car (with trailer) all by myself!
(did I mention I never got my licence?)
And I didn’t crash, or roll over. A proud moment indeed.

We went to get a steak one day.
It’s slightly more hassle then going to the supermarket and buy a t-bone.
We drove out. Shot a cow, cut it open and took all useful bits and pieces out. I had heart, liver and kidney for breakfast the next day.
Then I had to saw straight through the middle to make sure the T-bone comes out good. A job that acquires some attention, as you can tell from the concentration on my face in the pic.

Hope you’re not vegetarian. I’m not. And I do find it interesting to find out what it actually is that’s so neatly and unrecognisable wrapped up in the shops…

Last night I found myself in the bush in the middle of the night with a guy covered in blood. A sharp knife in one, and an axe in his other hand.
It could’ve been a horror-movie, but no.
Just one man doing his job.

Australia is a little funny. The only country that eats its national symbol. In order to do that someone needs to go out and get them.
And I tacked along for a night. I won’t put any pics on since it’s not a pretty sight.
But I do have to mention that up till the bullet hits, the kangaroos are happy as Larry bouncing about. They’d never know what hit them.
It helps he’s a very good gunman. All roo’s were hit in the head and died instantly.
He offered me to try, but I’m happy enough shooting empty beer boxes…
I’m actually quiet happy just emptying them Wink ;-)

It’s been an interesting experience, but I guess the time has come to keep on moving.

I wonder for how long.

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Anzac Biscuit Ingredients

1 cup plain flour
I cup sugar
1 cup rolled oats
1 cup desiccated coconut
4 oz butter
2 tablespoons boiling water
1 tablespoon golden syrup
1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda (add a little more water if mixture is too dry)

Anzac Biscuit Directions

Preheat oven to 180 degrees Celsius (or approx 375 degrees F).
Grease a biscuit tray or line with baking paper.
In a large bowl, combine all the dry ingredients.
In a small saucepan over a medium heat , combine the butter and golden syrup until the butter has melted.
In a small bowl, combine the boiling water and bicarbonate of soda.
Add the bicarb and water mixture with the melted butter and golden syrup.
Combine all ingredients in a large bowl.
Mix thoroughly.
Dollop teaspoonfuls of the biscuit mixture onto the greased baking tray.
Don’t forget that the biscuits WILL spread during baking, so make sure you leave room for them to spread! (I didn’t do this the 1st time and ended up with one huge biscuit)
Bake for 12 minutes, or until golden brown.
Remove from oven.
Allow the Anzac biscuits to cool on the tray for a few minutes before removing to a cooling rack.

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The back end of nowhere… and beyond

July 12, 2009

As agreed I was met in Katherine by a big purple truck.
To take me out to my home for the next few weeks.

It would have taken me three days to ride out, which I wouldn’t have minded. It was a beautiful road. That slowly turned from forest area to more open plains. Nothing else but bush and here and there a cow or kangaroo hopping about.

And then there it was.
A little oasis. Complete with palm trees and green grass.

Top Springs.

A funny place to pass through,
An even funnier place to live.

With a population of 7 it’s the smallest place I’ve ever spent much time.
It’s a place I’d describe with words like ‘interesting’ or ‘different’…
Not least because of the people working there.

There is the overworked & underpaid alcoholic gardener. Who sends all his wages straight back into the pub. He doesn’t really eat but makes up for it with xxxx gold-cans, his drink of choice. It’s him I am sharing a house with. Not always easy dealing with his mood swings but he’s a decent enough guy. And he keeps the place looking very clean.

Then we have boss-lady.
If a snake or cane toad is spotted she’d be the first one running out with a golf club and baseball bat to murder the animal.
She tries to run a tight ship but lacks dramatically in people skills. She seems very nice to most people, calling them ‘love’ or ‘chicken’, but most people don’t work for her or need to deal with her regime 24/7.
On the other hand I have to admit I’ve never been much good with authority. But when someone tries to treat me like I’m dumb or bullies me for no reason I get annoyed.

And her partner. An -I suspect- slightly autistic man who’s deaf at one ear and never listens with the other. In the 5 weeks I’ve spend here I’ve never quite figured out what he actually does. Apart from barging in on any one trying to do their job while shouting random comments like: “when you sweep the floor, use a broom!”… Or; “when you have nothing to do, stock the fridges!” (like you ever got nothing to do…)

A 21-year-old southern sheila has been here a bit longer than me and is the boss-lady’s pet. So she can’t do nothing wrong. I get on with her well enough but her lack of spine gets tiresome. She’s usually rather happy and finds everything: ‘excellent!’ and ‘cruisy’…

Big kiwi guy does the late shift. He’s quiet, laid back and easy to get on with. Just does the job not bothered about no one else.

The latest addition to the team is a charming lady from Western Australia, a serious breath of fresh air, she bounces around and is easy to talk to. She’s running the kitchen now and is doing an ‘excellent!’ job at that… Wink

I get on best with the last two, funny enough they are both travellers.
They know there’s a whole world out of TS. So don’t take everything too serious. You need that. Or you might end up like boss-lady…

I’ve been having a pretty good time though, despite of some peoples efforts to put me down.

The most interesting thing is the characters passing through here.

We’re not at any main highway so there’s no backpackers.
And just a few retired Australians with camper vans, a.k.a ‘grey nomads’.
One thing I thought would be great is the lack of things to spent money on… But in my first days here I met a lovely couple who go digging around for gem stones in the area and make jewellery out of it… so I bought a pair of earrings…

There are a few aboriginal communities in the area so they come in a lot.
I was shocked to find out that we have a ‘black fella’s bar’ and a ‘white fella’s bar’. And these two don’t mix well.
Everything we do is with double measure.

For example the petrol.
If a white fella comes along they can fill up and pay afterwards.
Comes a black fella, he has to come in to pay before filling up…

Many little things like that.

Before I started work here I was told to get a RSA (Responsible Service of Alcohol certificate)
I did the course online.
Only to find out when I got here that we break just about every rule in the book… From underage drinking to serving after hours and smoking at (and behind) the bar…
But again, the rules are different for different people. And boss-lady is the one to make them up. So whatever you do, it’s never right.

Sometimes there is a crowd, like the night we got Miss Universe ’72. Who came on a rally and had their final night in Top Springs. Including band, BBQ and some booze Wink A pretty good night that was.

Then we’ve got the cowboys and girls. All the people working on surrounding stations come in regularly for a drink.

90km up the road you find one of those stations called Camfield. With its 276.900ha and 35.000 cattle, it’s not the largest. But I wouldn’t call it small either.

On a rare day off I cycled out to Camfield to check out how things work there.
You can imagine my surprise when I saw a lone cyclist coming towards me…
Ida, from Swiss, has been cycling by herself for the past few years nearly the same route as I have and is just about to finish her 20.000km round of Australia. On a single speed bicycle!!! I’m absolutely amazed and was happy she decided to stay two nights at Top Springs. She’s a proper superhero.

And then the ‘truckies’
They’re a special kind all together. They come in for a heart attack on a plate and to chat up the barmaid.
But they’re good fun and I got to ride in a road train. Smile

Not only that, I got to fly in a helicopter too!
We’re owned by a helicopter company. They send flying cowboys out to muster cattle and they regularly stop here to get oil.
Sometimes when they’ve got time they take someone up for a flight. It’s great!
You get to see how very remote you actually are and the pilot took me out to a creek where the bats live.
There is a bit of a bat-problem at night, thousands swarm down in the trees and poo all over the show. That’s a reason the swimming pool has been closed for months already. A shame. Would be nice to be able to swim since there isn’t a whole lot of other things to do around here.

I did go for a run and a ride on my bike a few times, but after you’ve been up and down all four roads you’ve kindda seen it.

But the chopper pilot showed me where the bats go during day time and how they (not the bats…) muster cattle! It was brilliant, so next time an opportunity arose I took the chance. Since both the pilot and I had the afternoon off he said it wasn’t a problem to take me up. Not surprisingly boss-lady came out to spoil the fun and told us I couldn’t go because ‘it was too expensive’

It’s not her paying though. She’s not the pilot’s boss. And she has nothing to say over me on my time off. So when another one came in some days later I flew away. Razz

The main job I’ve been doing here is scrubbing and cleaning hotel rooms and toilets. Not the most exciting and not what I’ve been told I would be coming out for.
I know it needs to be done, but it wouldn’t harm anyone to swap the shifts around a little so we all get to work the shop and bar as well…

When I finally convinced boss-lady to make a roster I got all the cleaning shifts during the week, and an early shift Saturday and a late shift Sunday. It did suit me alright. I just bounce around listening to my mp-3 player. And there was a big draft on last weekend. So I arranged for a ride out on Saturday afternoon and planned to stay the night.
Except that boss-lady had different ideas. She doesn’t like me to enjoy myself so on the Friday night she tells me I’ve got a split shift on Saturday… working the night as well.
I mentioned that I already had plans, and I’ve been looking forward to getting to see the camp draft. Her reply;” If you go out there you don’t need to come back!’

Fine.
I jumped in a road train and away I was. Together with my bike and all my gear.
It’s wonderful to be free and not have people nagging about silly stuff.

And it was well worth getting sacked for. I had a great time watching people on horses chasing cows around an arena…

I want to be in Katherine next week for the show, a proper rodeo which will be fun to watch. Until that time I’m riding around on the road trains. With people called ‘Bull’, ‘Jumbo’, ‘Buck’ and ‘Bush Pig’.
It’s a good way to see some country…
Like last night when we went to see Lee Kernaghan & John Williamson at the Darwin city Muster. (apparently two of the biggest names in Australian country)
Had a great time and actually recognised some songs from what’s been playing in the truck Smile

And then, finally, I will get on the bike again.
Time to get out of the Northern Territory and go explore Western Australia for a bit.
It’s gonna be great!

Love
M.

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