Posts Tagged ‘bicycle’

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Way Out East

May 16, 2013

I noticed a little wiggly road on my map going nowhere.

So I went to have a look. 

The Ohuka Road

The Ohuka road, winds its way over a ridge and down a valley from where it climbs as a little dirt track and keeps going up and down until your legs are screaming. Or just plain give up altogether.

When that happens, if you’re lucky (and I tend to be), you run into a nice farmer who offers you to camp in his shearing shed.

Shearing Shed Camping

And just when you pitched the tent he calls ’round to offer a meal up at the house with the rest of the family.

The grandkids where over to stay for a few days, its school holidays and there’s enough to do at the farm. 

The Family

I missed the spectacular sunset because I was having a shower… that was pretty good too since it was the first one in a few days. Lucky Mary was out to get it..

Leaving Nga-Tuhoe I headed back to the main-back-road.

Leaving Nga-Tuhoe

There’s not a lot of traffic, or people, about.

Erepeti Road

I still get the feeling I’m being watched at times…

When I did come across people I’d have a chat.

A nice man invited me over for a coffee.

A Coffee

Another one invited me to come and stay at the farm. Same thing happened the day before…

But both times it was still too early in the day to stop riding. How nice of them though!

At a small pub I met three men with daughters who’d just been out setting bait for ducks. The duck hunting season is about to start and they’re coming out again next week to do some shooting. If I needed a ride to Gisborne.

I am heading there but the long way around, so I declined. A little while later they overtook me on the uphill and offered me a ride again. Instead I got a phone nr and an address to come and stay when I get to town :-)

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According to a map I had the area I was riding through was

‘Rural As’...

Rural As

And the road I was on wasn’t on the map at all…

So trying to find my way proved a little difficult. Lucky two nice lady’s were able to help me out.

Two Nice Ladies

The road I was after is actually a private station track and I needed permission to ride it.

But they knew the manager well so rang him up to ask if it was alright.

I would never have found the start of the road if they hadn’t given me very precise directions…

The start of the track

It wasn’t an easy ride. It was actually hardly a ride at all for the first couple of hours as I pushed my bike up the track.

Pushing it

But was rewarded with spectacular views.

And a fire/explosion of some sort going on in the distance.

Something going on.

A little plane was circling overhead and spraying fertiliser.

Firtiliser

That’s exactly what I don’t need….

When I got to the top I ran into the manager himself and he invited me to stay on the property that night. I could use one of the spare rooms in the single mens quarters. 

On a sunday they were not working so took me for a drive around the farm. Rural style.

The guys working here come from all over the country. So with some new addresses in my pocket I was on my way again in the morning.

Good times at Tangihou Station. 

Sam

I’ve been staring at my map. The loop road that hugs the east cape seemed like a nice ride on a bike.

To get there I had two options. The highway to Opotike, or the Motu Trails.

Easy choice.

Motu Trails

Build with pick and shovels it took 5 years to build a road wide enough for a coach and it was officially opened in 1918.

The Motu Trails are now part of the ‘Nga Haerenga’  New Zealand cycle trails. A collection of rides throughout the country. ’Nga Haerenga’ means ‘The Journey‘.

I got to Motu and ran into Jim. He’s just been out on a fishing trip and was heading home. So he left me with his spare food.

Hurray! Food!

That was very kind of him. And particularly good since I had not passed any stores since leaving Roturua.

I rode out of Motu in the misty morning but climbing out of the clouds the views were once again spectacular.

On the Motu Track

I slowly winded my way back to the coast.

Looking back onto Haiti
Onto the highway. But this is a highway with a difference.

HWY 35

Where people wave at you when you ride passed. Or toot. Or stop and have a yarn.

 Hwy 35

A highway where nobody seems to be in a hurry.

Back on the coastAnd where cows ride skateboards…

Huh?

I spent a night at a small campground where the owner let me stay in a caravan. That was great.

Specially because he kept suggestively asking me what I do for ‘fun‘ so I locked my door.

Trees

Each little town I crossed has a Marae, a Maori meeting-house. Used for either religious or social meetings. Often with beautiful carvings.

Marea

One afternoon I met two ladies running along the road. Upon asking where the nearest campground might be I was directed to the school in Raukokore. Glenis is the head teacher there. 

Friends

She told me to pitch my tent at the school grounds and come to the house for a meal.

We spent a very enjoyable evening chatting and eating. I tried some little black shellfish called bubu.

Being right on the water we saw the lovely sunset too.

Eastcoast Sunset

They were set to go on a road trip early the next morning.

But before we were all on our ways she handed me a beautiful jade greenstone, from the South Island, just like she is.

Waihou Bay

I cycled through Waihau Bay, where the movie ‘Boy’ was filmed.

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And up along the coast towards New Zealand’s most Eastern point.

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It’s a 20km ride out of the small settlement of Te Araroa to the furthest eastern lighthouse in the world.

The road out.

I just made it up the 748 steps to see the sunset.

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And back down in time to pitch my tent before dark, next to the furthest eastern dunny in the world…

For the most awesome view I only needed to zip open my tent.

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I walked back up them 748 steps to be the first person to see the sunrise that day.

Lighthous Sunrise

It was me, a group of religious people singing songs and a nice couple from Tauranga who helped me back to the turn off. About 10 of us saw the light first.
Actually, there might have been a few people in Samoa or Tokelau… since they skipped the date line last year this place isn’t the first anymore. ah well. Let’s pretend.

Back pushing peddles I had a look at a little church off the side of the road. The whole church was beautifully carved.

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Feeling hungry I stopped at the RSA club, I ordered a burger and this is what I got;

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That did the job.

I ended the day at Te Puia Springs Hotel. The sun had just set when I arrived, it has been a long day, but a soak in the (very) hot spring was well worth the effort. As was the generous offer of the Publican to let me stay in a private room for a dorm-price. 

The Publican

The weather didn’t look all that flash in the morning,

Rain

so I stayed. And wasn’t charged at all the 2nd night!

Saturday night at Te Puia Springs Hotel

Next day the sun was out again.

It was a nice ride, along some beaches and small towns into Gisborne,

IMG_9147where Captain Cook was the first European to set food on New Zealand back in 1769. 

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I had no trouble finding Dave’s family home. He is one of the three men I met in that small pub over a week ago. It was a great warm welcoming wonderful home. From where I needed to plan the next stage and a way to avoid the highway.

Dave had the perfect solution so after a couple of days I jumped on a truck at 4am to head a little further south and bypass that busy highway…

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Life aboard a Cargo Ship

March 31, 2013

Since I had no choice but to leave Australia I figured I might as well do it in a memorable way.

NYK Galaxy

I have also discovered I have a severe dislike of flying. Or anything to do with an airport. (especially the official bits)

There seemes to be many pro’s of travelling by ship.

  • You don’t have a luggage restriction And you don’t need to pull your bicycle apart and stuff it in a little box.
  • You have a room and a bed so you can sleep gloriously during overnight travel.
  • It is very relaxing, you go through time zones slowly so you don’t get jet-lagged.
  • You don’t need to wait in line for customs and quarantine. They come to you.
  • You meet some very interesting characters along the way.
  • It is great to see how life, work and play go together on a ship and in port.
  • All meals are included in the price…

But that’s where the one Con kicks in.

The price.

That and the fact it takes quite a bit of organising, but I have to say that Julie at freighterexpeditions has been extremely helpful,

I reckon the pros far outweigh the cons.

I absolutely loved the short trip that took me from Brisbane,

Bye Bye Australia

across the Tasman sea,

On the Tasman

to Auckland.

Auckland

And now I don’t ever want to fly again. Which obviously is not going to work very well with my budget.

But well, I’ll see what might happen in the future :-)

But let me tell you about the ship.

I didn’t know what to expect because this was for me a first. I’ve been on the Barge coming from Cape York and the ferry to Tasmania. So I had expected the room to be poky and tiny.

I was welcomed by the Captain

Captain

who took me to my room and told me to get comfortable.

Im Super Cargo!

The  ship was still loading and customs would come on board later in the day.

My room had its own bathroom, a comfy bed. A tv & dvd player. A kettle, a big couch and a table and a long desk & cupboard. Then there was still lots of storage space and if I wanted to I could run around in circles… It was bigger then most hotel rooms I ever stayed in!

My Room Aboard

But I didn’t need to run around in circles in my room for I was allowed to wander around the ship,

up and down the stairs all the way up to the bridge,

Captain

here the Captain, the first, second,

where are we going?

and third mates take turns making sure we won’t hit an iceberg or get lost.

I even got to steer the ship! It’s actually a bit harder than I thought but lucky there’s no trees out here I can crash into like I did on my driving-test  back in Oz. But, funny enough, when I steered a little out of course the Chief Engineer came running up from the engine room to see what the ### was going on. Oops.

Captain on the Bridge

But when he noticed it was ‘just’ me steering the ship it was alright. And he offered to show me the engine room too.

Chief Engineer

It is all the way down in the deep depths of the back of the ship, and it is absolutely massive!

Engine Room

So many wheels and odd bits and pieces I had no idea half the time.

something

But I knew what a piston is. And he showed me the piston that goes in the engine, it was about a meter wide!’ He told me the ship uses 60.000$ worth of fuel every day(!) and has its own fresh water making system. It’s all new and very interesting to me.

This vessel is registered in Germany. The Captain, the Chief Engineer and a Bunch of officers are German too. The rest of the crew came from the Philippines.

Crew Member

On the first day I met the other passengers.

There was a couple from France, Pierrette and Rudolf,

The French

And two Australian couples.

Kevin & Mary,

Kevin & Mary
who are well experienced with this kind of travel since they have been doing it for 30-odd years, and are very keen on revolving restaurants.

And Pam & Bernard, originally from NZ & South Africa.

We all had our meals in the same room as the officers while the rest of the crew had their separate mess-room.

For some reason the other 6 passengers sat at a table together, but I was placed next to the Captain

Sitting at the Captains table

and ate with the chief engineer, 1st mate and 3rd mate. Since they’re all German I struggled a little bit keeping the conversation going. Apparently they don’t talk an awful lot. The captain actually told me he preferred cargo much over passengers since containers can’t talk…

Dinner Time

The wonderful thing of being on ‘German Territory’ was that they had excellent coffee on board. Good bread as well.

All the meals were distinctly German too. Like the Tartar we were served on the 3rd night.

Tartar

Nothing else but raw mince, a raw egg and raw onion. I was the only one of the passengers brave enough to eat it as it came. The others preferred it cooked. It wasn’t bad.

After a few days the Germans loosened up a little and I had a great evening over a few beers out the back of the ship.

Beer

Watching the stars and the moon rise over the big wide open sea was wonderful.

moon

I liked the gentle rolling of the ship and it surprised me I never got seasick, slightly hangover yes. But not seasick :-)

Sitting there chatting the chief engineer mentioned he hadn’t spent much time in Australia, but he really enjoys camping in ‘Outback Germany’ :-) With Captain & Chief engineer

He has a farm back home so was particularly interested in the tractors and big farms I’ve been spending time at over here.

During the day while everybody on the ship is at work,

At work

or asleep, it is nice to have a look around. Find out what everybody is upto and trying not to be too much in the way.

At work

Or taking a dip in the pool, enjoying the sauna or use the little gym they have. I never set one step in the gym. But the pool, that gets filled up with seawater ever day was rather enjoyable.

the Pool

For me the trip could’ve last a lot longer, but on the last morning New Zealand was in sight,

New Zealand

A little bit sad.

But an amazing experience to arrive in the harbour of Auckland seeing so many little boats around and the whole hustle and bustle of a ship being steered in the right direction,

The Captain and the Pilot

first by a Pilot who came on board to get us near the docks.

arrival at Auckland

And then with two tug boats who towed us into place.

Containers

It was late afternoon and it was alright to stay one more night on board.

My final View

When I got on I had all my gear packed like I was going on a flight. But now everything was spread out all over my room. The quarantine officer didn’t seem to mind and sat happily chatting in the middle of all the mess while approving my pathetic attempts of cleaning bicycle and camping gear….

Quarentine Officer

Surprisingly my fully loaded touring bike didn’t fit into the elevator so the chief engineer came up with the wonderful idea to use the crane… He didn’t believe it would be easy for me to unpack it all. So I watched my bike dangling in the air about 15 meter above ground. Very scary indeed.

Ai

But all went well, well all except my pump breaking in two while the chief engineer tried pumping up my tires :-)

Now I am more than ready for some exciting new adventures,

So watch out New Zealand…

Here I Come!

:-)

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Western Australia in Pictures

February 14, 2013

The End

(of WA only)

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No Particular Reason

December 16, 2012

And when I got there, I figured, since I’ve gone this far, I might as well turn right around, just keep on going…

-Forest Gump-

Cape York

Good intentions I only made it 200km down from the Tip of Cape York when Rick passed me and asked if I needed a lift.

Rick

I didn’t need one. But I didn’t mind either…

I got lazy…

Instead of riding the same stretch of dusty corrugated dirt, I could spent a bit more time in the places I liked on my way up.

So it was ‘so long’ Cape York with its beautiful beaches.

(where you cant swim unless you liked to get chewed on)

Althought it didn’t stop some,

Crocs don't worry them..And see you later…

LocalsWhen I finally got out of Rick’s very comfortable, airconditioned, tourbus I was about 500km further south and back into lovely rainforest country.

Back through rainforest

I rode back to Cooktown, where I spent a few days on the way up months ago.Cooktown

The nice thing of cycling through places you’ve been before is that it feels like coming home a little. You’re not a complete stranger. You might even run into some old friends. (…..)

Hamish & AndyHamish & Andy happened to just be re-enacting the landing of Captain Cook when I strolled passed.

This time I took a little more time to wander around, climb up a big hill and enjoy the views.

I rode back down passed the old Lions Den Hotel, where nothing has changed,

and into Wujal Wujal, where nothing had changed either…

Back to Cairns where I happened to have a few days up my sleeve.

I decided to do something completely different.

Eventhough I don’t like water much at all.

turtleBut while youre here you can’t really skip the chance to have a look at the great barrier reef.

Underwaterworld

-More to come-

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The Tip

October 3, 2012

I have made it to mainland Australia’s Northern most point.

94 years after Francis Birtles did.

A true legend, who cycled around Australia a few times before making it up the cape in 1918, quite a feat.

Especially since the first vehicle didn’t make it for another 20 years after that.

How things have changed…

The road still follows parts of the track Frank Jardine first developed in 1864 when, as a 19-year-old, he managed to get a mob of cattle & horses from Rockhampton up this far to settle at Somerset beach.

A gorgeous spot where the Jardine homestead stood for many years.

Apparently he wasn’t all to friendly with the locals, even though he married a Samoan Princess.

As a result, when he past away in 1919, he was buried standing up. Now he will never rest in peace. Or so the story goes.

Nowadays the well beaten track up to the tip is not so much hardship. It’s just long.

Very very long.

When I took a break at Punsand bay I was happy to run into  my excellent-coffee-making-friends Alex & Mark again. Especially since I had cycled through Bamaga on a Sunday. When the supermarket was closed and I did not get the chance to stock up.

It’s funny how after being slightly worried all the way up the cape. I didn’t think twice about pitching my tent right on the beach at this camp ground, everybody does.

Next morning it was a little bit surprising to see some tracks coming up the beach. Right up to the tents.

But I’m still unsure what they are, could be a crocodile, could be a big turtle…

Big turtles, and Dugongs, are part of the diet of the people in the Torres Strait. It’s “Ailan Kastom” (Island Custom).

Even though they are an endangered species the people here are allowed to hunt and kill them for food and use in ceremonies.

I’ve met uncle Edmund when I first came through Seisia, one of the 5 communities at the Northern Peninsula Area.

His family came from the island of Saibai and had moved to mainland Australia after WWII. One evening he invited me over to his house to have dinner with his family.

Turtle was on the menu.

I tried a little bit.

Not my thing, but an interesting experience for sure.

After riding all the way up here it seemed like a waste of time to just turn right around and cycle the same way back.

There is much more to explore.

It just didn’t seem like a place you should get out of in a hurry.

I stayed a little while.

Just north of Bamaga I came across the wreck of a DC3 that crashed here in 1945.

It was only 1km from the runway when it hit the trees in bad visibility and crashed, killing all aboard.

Wandering around the area at the tip I was surprised to find out about the Pajinka resort. Pajinka is the traditional name for the Tip of Cape York.

It would have been a super flash resort. For $1526 you could stay 5 nights in one of the villa’s back in 1993 when it was up and running.  There is the remains of a swimming pool, restaurant, a nursery and 14 villa’s.

It was owned and operated by the traditional landowners, the Injinoo People, another one of the 5 communities on the NPA.

It has been abandoned not even that long ago, in early 2000.

Apparently there has been a big fire in the power generator and the whole resort stopped operating overnight. Now the jungle has well and truly taken over.

Twice before in Australia have I come across the Variety Bash, a charity run to collect money for sick kids. They came to Top Springs years ago when I first arrived in Australia and last year in Eulo, the night the shop burned down.

This year they made it from Balmain to Bamaga, 4202km, with a big party organized at the end. I happened to be there.

They had the most spectacular fire works I’ve ever seen and a great concert featuring John Williamson and John Paul Young.

At the Loyalty Beach campground I met Paul.

He mentioned a friend of him that lives out on one of the Islands in the Torres Straight.

He was heading out there over the weekend. I figured that sounds like a great little trip so we hopped onto the ferry to Thursday Island from where his mate Tommo would collect us in his tinny.

No one around here seems particularly worried about the crocodiles. The kids happily play around the wharf in Seisia.

The odd thing is that they’re real scared of an innocent little frog. A superstition believe is that touching a frog is like touching a dead person.

Tommo lives on Prince of Wales Island, also known as Muralug.

With it’s 204.6 km2 the largest of the Torres Strait islands, but with about 20 inhabitants not very populated.

There is nothing on the island. Well. No shops or people or roads.

There are rocks and beaches and scrub.

And a good amount of wild pigs who are not afraid to come real close.

It takes 30 minutes in a tinny to get over there, a great little ride if the sea is not too rough.

Tommo’s place is amazing, right on the most beautiful beach I’ve ever seen.

We made a big fire,

had a few beers,

Watched the sunset,

and slept in a swag under the stars.

It was altogether utterly glorious.

You know when you’ve been in the far north too long when you put on a jumper at night because it’s getting a bit chilly and on your way passed the thermometer you realise it’s actually still 28°C…

And a little more during the day, I have to admit I do like winter in Queensland.

In order to catch the ferry back we needed to get going before sunrise.

The sea wasn’t as quiet as it had been on the way over. The stretch between POW and TI was particularly rough. I sat right in the front of the tinny and as I got a fair beating from the waves I glanced back and I might have actually yelped when I looked at both guys right underneath me.

A big wave nearly made us go straight over. The good news was we were only 50 meter from the hospital.

The bad news, there’s an extreme current and some big lizards floating around in those waters. When you’re off the boat you pretty well gone.

Lucky Tommo got us to the ferry with only narrowly missing a ship on the way in.

Well, that was enough boat rides for me,

for at least two weeks….

More about that next one later.