Archive for the ‘Australia’ Category

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Life aboard a Cargo Ship

March 31, 2013

Since I had no choice but to leave Australia I figured I might as well do it in a memorable way.

NYK Galaxy

I have also discovered I have a severe dislike of flying. Or anything to do with an airport. (especially the official bits)

There seemes to be many pro’s of travelling by ship.

  • You don’t have a luggage restriction And you don’t need to pull your bicycle apart and stuff it in a little box.
  • You have a room and a bed so you can sleep gloriously during overnight travel.
  • It is very relaxing, you go through time zones slowly so you don’t get jet-lagged.
  • You don’t need to wait in line for customs and quarantine. They come to you.
  • You meet some very interesting characters along the way.
  • It is great to see how life, work and play go together on a ship and in port.
  • All meals are included in the price…

But that’s where the one Con kicks in.

The price.

That and the fact it takes quite a bit of organising, but I have to say that Julie at freighterexpeditions has been extremely helpful,

I reckon the pros far outweigh the cons.

I absolutely loved the short trip that took me from Brisbane,

Bye Bye Australia

across the Tasman sea,

On the Tasman

to Auckland.

Auckland

And now I don’t ever want to fly again. Which obviously is not going to work very well with my budget.

But well, I’ll see what might happen in the future :-)

But let me tell you about the ship.

I didn’t know what to expect because this was for me a first. I’ve been on the Barge coming from Cape York and the ferry to Tasmania. So I had expected the room to be poky and tiny.

I was welcomed by the Captain

Captain

who took me to my room and told me to get comfortable.

Im Super Cargo!

The  ship was still loading and customs would come on board later in the day.

My room had its own bathroom, a comfy bed. A tv & dvd player. A kettle, a big couch and a table and a long desk & cupboard. Then there was still lots of storage space and if I wanted to I could run around in circles… It was bigger then most hotel rooms I ever stayed in!

My Room Aboard

But I didn’t need to run around in circles in my room for I was allowed to wander around the ship,

up and down the stairs all the way up to the bridge,

Captain

here the Captain, the first, second,

where are we going?

and third mates take turns making sure we won’t hit an iceberg or get lost.

I even got to steer the ship! It’s actually a bit harder than I thought but lucky there’s no trees out here I can crash into like I did on my driving-test  back in Oz. But, funny enough, when I steered a little out of course the Chief Engineer came running up from the engine room to see what the ### was going on. Oops.

Captain on the Bridge

But when he noticed it was ‘just’ me steering the ship it was alright. And he offered to show me the engine room too.

Chief Engineer

It is all the way down in the deep depths of the back of the ship, and it is absolutely massive!

Engine Room

So many wheels and odd bits and pieces I had no idea half the time.

something

But I knew what a piston is. And he showed me the piston that goes in the engine, it was about a meter wide!’ He told me the ship uses 60.000$ worth of fuel every day(!) and has its own fresh water making system. It’s all new and very interesting to me.

This vessel is registered in Germany. The Captain, the Chief Engineer and a Bunch of officers are German too. The rest of the crew came from the Philippines.

Crew Member

On the first day I met the other passengers.

There was a couple from France, Pierrette and Rudolf,

The French

And two Australian couples.

Kevin & Mary,

Kevin & Mary
who are well experienced with this kind of travel since they have been doing it for 30-odd years, and are very keen on revolving restaurants.

And Pam & Bernard, originally from NZ & South Africa.

We all had our meals in the same room as the officers while the rest of the crew had their separate mess-room.

For some reason the other 6 passengers sat at a table together, but I was placed next to the Captain

Sitting at the Captains table

and ate with the chief engineer, 1st mate and 3rd mate. Since they’re all German I struggled a little bit keeping the conversation going. Apparently they don’t talk an awful lot. The captain actually told me he preferred cargo much over passengers since containers can’t talk…

Dinner Time

The wonderful thing of being on ‘German Territory’ was that they had excellent coffee on board. Good bread as well.

All the meals were distinctly German too. Like the Tartar we were served on the 3rd night.

Tartar

Nothing else but raw mince, a raw egg and raw onion. I was the only one of the passengers brave enough to eat it as it came. The others preferred it cooked. It wasn’t bad.

After a few days the Germans loosened up a little and I had a great evening over a few beers out the back of the ship.

Beer

Watching the stars and the moon rise over the big wide open sea was wonderful.

moon

I liked the gentle rolling of the ship and it surprised me I never got seasick, slightly hangover yes. But not seasick :-)

Sitting there chatting the chief engineer mentioned he hadn’t spent much time in Australia, but he really enjoys camping in ‘Outback Germany’ :-) With Captain & Chief engineer

He has a farm back home so was particularly interested in the tractors and big farms I’ve been spending time at over here.

During the day while everybody on the ship is at work,

At work

or asleep, it is nice to have a look around. Find out what everybody is upto and trying not to be too much in the way.

At work

Or taking a dip in the pool, enjoying the sauna or use the little gym they have. I never set one step in the gym. But the pool, that gets filled up with seawater ever day was rather enjoyable.

the Pool

For me the trip could’ve last a lot longer, but on the last morning New Zealand was in sight,

New Zealand

A little bit sad.

But an amazing experience to arrive in the harbour of Auckland seeing so many little boats around and the whole hustle and bustle of a ship being steered in the right direction,

The Captain and the Pilot

first by a Pilot who came on board to get us near the docks.

arrival at Auckland

And then with two tug boats who towed us into place.

Containers

It was late afternoon and it was alright to stay one more night on board.

My final View

When I got on I had all my gear packed like I was going on a flight. But now everything was spread out all over my room. The quarantine officer didn’t seem to mind and sat happily chatting in the middle of all the mess while approving my pathetic attempts of cleaning bicycle and camping gear….

Quarentine Officer

Surprisingly my fully loaded touring bike didn’t fit into the elevator so the chief engineer came up with the wonderful idea to use the crane… He didn’t believe it would be easy for me to unpack it all. So I watched my bike dangling in the air about 15 meter above ground. Very scary indeed.

Ai

But all went well, well all except my pump breaking in two while the chief engineer tried pumping up my tires :-)

Now I am more than ready for some exciting new adventures,

So watch out New Zealand…

Here I Come!

:-)

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Eat Pray Love… or something along those lines.

March 18, 2013

After staying in far North Queensland for way too long the best plan of attack was to get back to Brisbane before my ship sailed.

But having cycled up the whole way I decided a different form of transport was to be taken back down.

Part of the way anyway.

This is where Adrian came in. Being a friend of a friend of a friend of mine he offered to take me down the coast to Bowen from where I would get back on my bicycle.

Adrian

On the way up I’ve been taken the backtracks, so it was good to see what I missed out on from a different perspective. Not Much.

My View

The Bruce highway is a narrow road, most of the way without shoulder and a massive amount of trucks.

From up high in the comfy and dry cabin I did actually feel sorry for the one cyclist we saw along the way. Although if it would’ve been me, I know that I usually feel sorry for all those people stuck behind their little windows.

So I guess I do well on both sides of the fence…

After a night at a ridiculously expensive backpackers in Bowen (44$ for a dorm bed..) I finally managed to get back on two wheels and started peddling up the road.

I knew I’m a bit out of shape, I hadn’t actually done much cycling at all for about 6 months!

But I didn’t remember it being this heavy.. until I realized I might help if I put some air in my tyres. It did :-)

Next hurdle was the range, I came in from a different direction last time and kinda forgot about the great dividing range… And the narrow road crawling up with trucks and mining vehicles flying by. Oops.

But all went fine, until I found out there was no way I could take a break because the second I stopped riding the march flies came down to attack, they don’t just bite like a mosquito, no they just chew off half your arm.

Not that I’m complaining.

Time to cool down

I would not do such a thing. But after 110km in 36 degrees, no wind and 60% humidity I was very pleased to find a little waterhole (crocodile free) where I could cool down a little before riding back through the gates of Strathmore Station.

Strathmore

The very place I spend a whole week on the way up when the Bowen River Rodeo was on.

As it happened Paul & Sally where just leaving for a few days, so I waited for their return before heading off. That wasn’t a problem since there is enough to explore around the historic homestead and surroundings.

Black Cockatoo

This is the wet season but there hadn’t been too much rain yet. This all changed when I showed up and it started pissing down…

One other minor detail was that my knee had started making funny noises and wouldn’t bend for a day or three.

All these little things together made me decide to jump back into the truck with Adrian and head a little further south…

A little became 1000 km as I didn’t get out in Rockhampton, as planned. Or Maryborough, as back-up planned.

Instead I got all the way to Gympie where Adrian owns a property and lives, whenever he’s not on the road, with Leanne and his two daughters Kayleen and Daina.

Adrian, Leanne & the girls

They showed me around and took me to the local Barrel Races,

Australia you think?

Barrel Races

Daina’s passion.

Daina

Across the road, in another one of those typical Queensland houses lives Mick.

Mick told me to crash at his place since there is more space. And he was heading off the next morning for a week run-around outback Queensland. Mick is a truck driver too.

Mick

He used to be a helicopter pilot up in the Territory and has many a story of remote area’s and outback adventures. A delight to listen too.

Mick also has a bunch of horses, cows, dogs and pigs who kept me company during the stay in his house.

Mick & his Mate

As he left he showed me the fridge, “Help yourself to anything”, the car “Here’s the keys”, and the house “Make yourself at home, see you in a week!

Mick's Place

He left me slightly stunned. In most places it would be un imaginable your neighbour turns up with a stranger and you leave them after chatting for a couple of hours, in charge of everything you own…

It was very lucky. As the rain had set in and every exit road had flooded.

Road flooded

I wasn’t all alone as Leanne insisted I come across the road and have dinner with her and the family. And the other neighbour, Linda, would call around , feed the pigs and have a coffee and a chat. Nice to see neighbours helping each other out.

After a week I felt pretty much at home…

But it was time to move on.

Bridge

No matter how much I enjoyed the house and the riding lessons Daina took it upon herself to give me…,

Still Trying

more rain had been predicted and I’d better get out before it flooded again if I wanted to get to Pomona.

Which I did.

I had signed up to go and sit on the floor for 10 days and not speak.

Which is an excellent passing of time when its raining all the time.

I’ve heard about ‘Vipassana meditation‘ from various people over the past 12-odd years.

It’s a meditation technic passed on from teacher to student over 2500 years since Buddha told people in India back in the day.

It wasn’t a run-around-naked, tree hugging, hippy-thing. (as some of my friends worried)

It’s actually a fairly simple technic you can use to … well eradicate suffering. So they say.

Interesting enough it wasn’t the not-talking that was the most difficult part.

It wasn’t the fact that you only got a breakfast and lunch at 11.00am and then nothing more but an apple for the rest of the day.

It wasn’t the fact that you get up at 4.00am every day either.

Or the fact you were not allowed your phone, computer or even a pen & paper or a book.

It was the sitting. 12 hours a day.

By day 4 I was so sore I couldn’t sleep. I tried laying on the floor, walking a while. It was just no good. The weird thing was, it was all gone after the first meditation session the next day.

When you see the old students in the front sitting as still as a statue for hours on end you wonder, while you twist and turn and can’t get comfortable in any way.

And because the first few days you don’t quiet know what you are actually doing (it all becomes clearer towards the end) you spend a fair bit of time ‘meditating’ on your bed, with your eyes closed, snoring… Well I’m not sure about the others but it happened to me a few times.

If you would’ve walked into the meditation hall towards the end of the course, and you saw 60 people sitting death still with their eyes closed you might’ve wondered about our sanity. I would’ve.

But while you sit there and learn to observe you notice ‘stuff’ happening.

I’m not going to get into any further detail now because I’ve already got 1464 words as it is.

It was great to be able to chat to the girl I spend sharing a room with for 10 days at the end. Aneita lives in Brisbane and we spend a day or two just talking when the course had finished.

One of the best things I found out when I got my phone back was the news of the birth of little Saar Esther, back in the Netherlands.

Saar Esther

Another niece :-)

…………

Before having to leave the country I caught up with some more relatives of mine who happened to be holidaying in Noosa.

2nd Cousin Rodney & Family

I even got a ride out on the jet ski, but I never did anything like this;

Jump

I rather leave that to my cousins out here. I prefer to keep my feet on solid ground. So it might sound strange but with all my dislike of water I jumped straight back on a ship.

But not before catching up with some of the people who helped me see, and love this country,

like Frank who took me across the Simpson Desert in 2011.

Frank

And Inge & Edward, my friends from Buff, So little Saar got here first Buff too :)

Sally (& Paul) , Who is up at Strathmore and I will hopefully see again one day.

Sally

Paul, who managed to get my bike and all my gear in a little Hyundai Getz! (rather different from the F100 indeed…)

Paul

And my great Aunt & Uncle,

Uncle Dick

Aunt Ineke

And now.
Finally.
I will move on.
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Western Australia in Pictures

February 14, 2013

The End

(of WA only)

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Boomerang-ing

January 19, 2013

I boomeranged around Australia for the last couple of months.

Boomerang me

For a cycling blog I’ve done  a shocking amount of cycling.

None.

That explains why it’s been a little quiet…

Among the few things I have done are diving on the Great Barrier reef,

Cray fishing in Dongara,

Cray Fishing

strolling along the 1 mile jetty in Busselton,

Busselton Jetty

seeing two kangaroos (play) fight,

Playing at the Lake

walking up the ‘Pyramid’ in Gordonvale,

The Pyramid

from where you get a lovely view…

Lovely View

Sailing in a yacht race in Fremantle, and winning. Eventhough I had no clue what was going on and it all seemed awfully hectic to me.

Sleeping under the stars in the sand dunes,

Sand Dunes

Checking out some sea-life at AQWA, the aquarium of Western Australia,

The most enjoyable way so far…. At least I stayed dry. 

And witnessing a ‘green flash’ in Seisia.

For some one who doesn’t like water a lot, hates waves, usually avoids the coast and screamed the first time she encountered a fish while snorkling, I spent a huge amount of time in, on, and around it.

I’ve gone a bit like this;

Cairns-Perth-Cairns-Bamaga-Cairns…

And none of this by bike… Although, I have in the past covered the same ground on my pushy, so it’s not really cheating…

right?

I wanted to get back to Western Australia to catch up with some of the friends I’ve made over the past 4 (!!!) years. I will be leaving in the near future and I don’t know if I’ll ever be back.

There’s a whole big wide world out there after all.

Here some of the people I did catch up with. And some of the people I didn’t….

(but would’ve liked too)

 Thanks to all of you who made a difference to my stay in WA.

I arrived in Perth where the light and the air seemed so clear and bright and crisp compared to Cape York, where it started to get humid and pretty warm.

The wet season was on its way and I thought that might actually be a rather interesting experience.

So I boomeranged back, left my bike where it was (Cairns), and jumped into Paul’s F100 (it’s a truck, not a car..)

F100

Either way, this 43-year-old machine got us back up to Cape York without any major trouble and just in time. About 4 hours after we arrived it started raining and the road closed.

pics-6036-2

Once the road closes it usually stay’s that way the whole wet season. Then the only option to get out is by plane or, as I discovered, on the Trinity Bay. A barge that supplies the communities and islands in the Torres Strait every week.

Trinity BayTrinity Bay

They have space for 32 passengers as well, wich makes it a popular way of transport in the dry season. There are not too many tourist around in the wet. So not only did I get a 2-night-trip on the barge. Also I was the one and only passenger, I had the whole ship for myself! And the 16 crew-members.

Relaxing times

It’s a very relaxing trip.

Crocodile

The weather was gorgeous.

View from the ship

It had stopped raining.

pics-1

Just before setting off I witnessed one of the most spectacular sunset’s on the Tip yet.

Another glorious Sunset

As the sun disappeared under the horizon there was a very brief but bright green flash.

Ever gazed upon the green flash, Master Gibbs?”

“I reckon I seen my fair share. Happens on rare occasion. The last glimpse of sunset, a green flash shoots up into the sky. Some go their whole lives without ever seeing it. Some claim to have seen it who ain’t. And some say—”

“It signals when a soul comes back to this world from the dead.

―Hector Barbossa, Joshamee Gibbs and Pintel, pirates of the Caribbean.-

It gave me a taste of what’s to come.

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No Particular Reason

December 16, 2012

And when I got there, I figured, since I’ve gone this far, I might as well turn right around, just keep on going…

-Forest Gump-

Cape York

Good intentions I only made it 200km down from the Tip of Cape York when Rick passed me and asked if I needed a lift.

Rick

I didn’t need one. But I didn’t mind either…

I got lazy…

Instead of riding the same stretch of dusty corrugated dirt, I could spent a bit more time in the places I liked on my way up.

So it was ‘so long’ Cape York with its beautiful beaches.

(where you cant swim unless you liked to get chewed on)

Althought it didn’t stop some,

Crocs don't worry them..And see you later…

LocalsWhen I finally got out of Rick’s very comfortable, airconditioned, tourbus I was about 500km further south and back into lovely rainforest country.

Back through rainforest

I rode back to Cooktown, where I spent a few days on the way up months ago.Cooktown

The nice thing of cycling through places you’ve been before is that it feels like coming home a little. You’re not a complete stranger. You might even run into some old friends. (…..)

Hamish & AndyHamish & Andy happened to just be re-enacting the landing of Captain Cook when I strolled passed.

This time I took a little more time to wander around, climb up a big hill and enjoy the views.

I rode back down passed the old Lions Den Hotel, where nothing has changed,

and into Wujal Wujal, where nothing had changed either…

Back to Cairns where I happened to have a few days up my sleeve.

I decided to do something completely different.

Eventhough I don’t like water much at all.

turtleBut while youre here you can’t really skip the chance to have a look at the great barrier reef.

Underwaterworld

-More to come-